'Dad's Army' and the Battle of the Bar

31 May2010

Stayed in Camden Haven Sunday and today we set course for Port Macquarie. In order to catch the rising tide at Port (as everyone calls it), we left the dock at 07:00, also hoping for an early outgoing tide at Camden Haven. Due to the tidal lag however, we were still in incoming water and this contributed to an embarrassingly poor departure off the dock. None the less we got out in the open water to find a flat and still day that was not ‘sailing’ but was beautiful just the same.Under motor and with the main providing some lift, we made about 6 kts, arriving at the Port Macquarie bar at about 10:00.

With the conditions as they were , good, and the tide right, the bar should not have presented any problems however! As we ran in on the published inbound track we could not find the back lead. Distracted by the sailwork, it was not until Paul spoke that I became aware that things were 'not pretty'. Not dangerous due to the mild conditions but certainly not as things should be with steepening waves close to breaking, developing all around. We turned tail and headed back to open water to investigate.

Now prior to all of this I had asked VMR Port Mcq ( the local volunteer dad’s army) about the bar, to be told "no problems". Upon further enquiry after our turn around we were then advised that he approach had been changed!!!. Armed with the correct approach track this time we motored into the river. When I got time to call (by phone) to point out that I thought it poor from that we weren’t told in the first palce that he bar had shifted, the reply was “Oh every around here knows that”. When I also pointed out that we could not find the back lead, I was told in a similar tone that “Oh that’s was taken down a few months ago and hasn’t been replaced – anyway, you couldn’t see it when it was there as the Pine trees cover it”

Ahhhh!!!!!!.

With all that behind us we snugged into the local marina, a rustic but adequate place and will likely stay tomorrow as residual winds from the East Coast  low are likely all day.

A Peaceful Haven

28th May 2010

As expected, it was a bugger of a night at Crowdy with surging and the wind thrashing Pilgrim against her lines and occasionally into the dock. Fenders were placed but the movement was pretty large so it was hard to impossible to keep them in position. This meant being up every 2 hrs to check and adjust the moorings and all this in a wet a cold southerly wind. Not a good situation for 2 AM dressed only in light PJ shorts .

Checking the weather early, we set off at 07:00 after some effort to get the lines ready for departure. This because; tying to a wharf tends to involve lines wrapped around poles and awkward knots and so on. Just out of the harbour I set all the sail and we settled straight away into a beautiful 6 kts across a 2- 3 mtr but very consistent swell. The forecast promised sunshine but no such luck. We got glimpse ( see photo at right) but we also got rain. None of this however, detracted from what was a good trip in ‘pretty’ good conditions. This was supported by the fact that Paul survived and was even cheerie once he gained confidence in his stomach.

Arriving at Camden Haven (near Lauriton) was interesting. The bar is reported as friendly but even in these relatively good conditions, albeit for the largish swell, we found breaking waves across half of the dauntingly narrow entrance. Even so Paul was at the helm and using his surfing skills, got us in with only an occasional demand for reassurance from me. Inside the trip to the commercial moorings was all calm but again, dauntingly shallow. With the mooring secured I tidied the boat, check her over and then into lunch.

An investigation of weather and tides will probably have us here tomorrow as Northerlies are forecast. This will take us to a late-ish departure Sunday morning to make the tide into Port McQuarie. A peaceful haven indeed!

No crowds in Crowdy Harbour

27th May 2010


From Forster, we planned an 09:00 departure once we checked the weather. The day started off OK but soon turned to showers. With the ‘Seabreeze’ site saying that the winds would remain south and abate, it seemed a good plan to head off and travel fast on the back of the front that went through last night.

Motoring out of Forster we charged over a few steep waves and buried the bow a few times but she seemed happy. With the winds as predicted, I intended to run under headsail only but the winds soon dropped off and the motion of the boat became terrible. Setting the main improved things but the winds refused to stabilise and with the seas at 2m and the swell almost 3m, conditions were tough.

Thanks to the “oh so good’ Yanmar, I elected to motor sail for a while to get some headway and to stabilise the boat. This worked but the trip remained tough with heavy showers and occasional big swells.

Paul , by this, had again lost out to the dreaded seasickness so he was not having any fun at all. Sympathetic to his plight I elected to shorten the trip and stop over in Crowdy Harbour. An ‘all weather’ port, the harbour turned out to be very shallow with depth alarms going the entire time we were securing to the very old and difficult visitors wharf. I expect the night to be a little disturbed by surges and mooring line attention but that’s sailing and things are certainly better here than out “there”.

I guess, given the poor conditions, it really no surprise that we are the only ones here - certainly not crowded in Crowdy!

Sea Miles at last!

Sunday 23rd May 2010

After Saturday's success with the engine,  I got into thework early although I must admit that I wasn't keen to spend more time in the engine bay. Anticpating a quick tweek to further adjust the mounts I discovered, unexpectedly, that in adjusting the engine up a little, the alignment went out again so it took some 6 hrs of further struggle with the occasional curse, to get it right. Finally, a test run sometime after 15:00 confirmed all well. In fact we got 8 kts at full power of about 3100 rpm. Just over limits but acceptable to Yanmar. A good day!

Monday
On Monday we got going early so as to fix up all the bills and get moving. I was keen for some real sea miles!!! After all the effort I must say that both Noaks slipway and Steve from Nelson Bay Marine were obliging with their prices and wished us well. At 10:30 we motored off the dock and out of Port Stephens headed for Broughton Island not far away. Conditions were overcast but calm and pleasant. The trip to Broughton was enjoyable and positive and only took 90mins, motoring all the way so as to ‘prove’ the engine and the wind was light anyway.

We arrived in Coal Shaft Bay and dropped the pick ( the brand new 45lbs manson) in about 8mtrs. After settling and confirming the anchor hold we rowed in to a beach for an explore and what a great place this is. We walked over the hill to Esmeralda Cove and had a chat with some ‘locals’ staying in their mate hut. These hut go back to the 1890s when first ‘settled’ by Italian fishermen, then the Greeks and then the Australians in the 50s. The huts remain on a grandfather rule but Parks and Wildlife are keen to see them gone. I think the historic value will win out as well as the fact they the place is still and important refuge to ‘boaties’ in bad weather. We walked on to see North Cove and some more of the island before returning to PILGRIM and up’ing anchor and motoring around to Esmeralda cove where we saw moorings in a very snug position. After taking up the line we both had a ‘solar’ shower and settled into a cuppa and writing this log/blog. - Tomorrow we set of early and head for Foster.

Tuesday
Got going early again, under motor but with the main set. We expected light Northerlies and got pretty much just that. Seas were small but crossing so all in all a good trip of some 7 hrs ‘sailing’ up to Forster arriving at the bar at about 14:00. We spent some time looking for whales but had to be satisfied with aThe boat went well but for the starboard tank venting fuel. I quickly worked out that this was a function of the Yanmar fuel system whereby excess fuel is delivered to the injectors and then returned to the tank. Griffin had all the return going to the Starboard tank so when running on the Port tank, the starboard tank was ‘making’ fuel. Not a big issue but one they should have mentioned!

As for Forster, I had rung ahead and organised a ‘pile berth’ at which we tied up with some challenges in the fast flowing tidal flow but got it done. Of interest, enroute I called ahead and while on the phone I was told we could have the "Red Gate". I asked what this meant and the woment seemed reluctant to explain. I concluded that it must be some local jargon and forgot about it. Upon arrval , as we negotiated the incredibly narrow channel to the Fish Co-Op, standing out above all else was a pile berth with the featured Red gate. In fact the only such gate within cooee. It now became clear! Anyway, once secured to our red gate we got to the the ubiquitous clean up and then a pleasant night in Forster. Weather tomorrow doesn’t look like supporting a departure so probably will be here Wed and go Thurs.

Wednesday

Stay in Forster, washing and some boat maintenance

You are not going to belive this!

22nd May 2010

We are still here! Why? because we have had  more problems. (I said you are not going to believe this!).

After the last revelation about props and installation stuff ups, I set to getting a new prop, having the gearbox dismantled by Yanmar and generally waiting for things to improve. Well they didn't!

On trying to renstall the rebuild box, the local mechanic found the engine to be grossly mis-alligned  with prop shaft. So misaligned in fact that there was insufficent adjustment onthe mounts to address the problem. But wait, there more! On releasing the mount bolts in order to try to move the engine it was discovered that 3 of the 8 bolts holding the engine in position were stripped and thus loose. Griffin Marine had again "done me wrong" in a big way. I of course was furious, dismayed and ready to give up.

A new day brought a new light so Paul and I got to repairing the mounts bolts, elongating the mount holes to allow for more adjustement and adjusting the error out. This was followed up the next day by the mechanic giving it a further tweak and declaring the alignment OK. All that was need was to slip the  boat and fit the new prop.

Of course; the new prop fit was not as it should be thus calling for an urgent bit of clever machine work and another day on the slip. Another steback but one that found a quick solution.Next day the prop went on, was painted, resulting in the need to wait over night for the 'paint' to dry.

On Friday, we put Pilgrim back in the water and gave her gentle throttle to clear the marina. Exiting the breakwater I increased revs to 1500 to be met with a ferocious knocking that sound as though the prop was coming off. (will this never end???)

Gently we slipped into a D’Albora berth and waited for Brett the mechanic. He was lost as to the cause so back out of the water for a look. regrettably, we found very little wrong with the prop so out of time, Brett left us (and me) to stew in absolute despair.

Late on the miserable day that Friday had become I met up with Doug and Val from 'Touchwood' , a beautiful timber 40’. As a boat builder he knew his stuff so guided me towards looking at the stern tube and shaft alignment. Upon investigation back on Pilgrim, he was right so I felt much better knowing I could attack this latest adjustment first thing to morrow.

This I did with a good deal of sucess. Although still not completly right, I am convinced we will have this by tomorrow, have Brett give is tick Monday and be on our way.

We all have to wait and see.

Grandkids Visit

12th  May 2010

While stuck in Port Stephens awaiting the resolution of the gearbox problems, the opportunity existed to see the grandkids who I hadn’t got a chance to show PILGRIM to. This story is of course something close to my heart but not really one for blogg followers so I’ll leave it up to the photos to tell the tale.

PILGRIM - Some facts

7th May 2010

I have had a few questions about he vessel so while we wait in Port Stephens here are some facts.

PILGRIM is a Van De Stadt (Dutch design), Seal. A 36' cruising vessel with a sound heritage and established pedigree. She is steel, built by a shipwright and launched 2006. From Launch to 2009, when I purchased her, the owner builder continued to work on the vessel while living abroad.

 When I got her, she was sound but needed a lot of money to get ready for this trip. This you know from the earlier bloggs but in detail:

Pilgrim displaces about 9 tonne and is a long fin keel configuration with a very round hull shape. This result in good handling and a good turn of speed for a 36' boat. Being round on the bottom she is a bit rolly without sail so, fittingly, she is much happier sailing than motoring.

  She has and aft main cabin, a big V bunk forward and a couple of 'watch' berths in the main cabin. She holds 500 ltrs of water and 250 ltrs of fuel. The hot water system is gas and the fridge and stove are first class. All in all quite comfortable but a little squeezy for anyone over 6'.

On the function side, she has 440 AHrs of AGM batteries, 200 watts of solar panels, an 80 amp alternator, 50 amp shore charger and 1200 watt inverter. A good power setup for cruising and good for the electronics on board. The suit of fancy stuff includes a DSC VHF, a backup VHF, a Coden HF with Pactor modem for emails and weather reports via Sail mail. We have Raymarine life tags, Rayamarine AIS (like TCAS for the aviation folk), wind, speed and  depth instruments, a very sound linear drive auto pilot  fully interfaced with all the nav gear. Primary navigation is the Raymarine E80 plotter/multiple function display which amalgamate electronic charts for all of Australia, GPS, AIS, man over board system and a 4 Kw radar. There is also a backup Furuno GPS plotter and nav station. ( of course I have paper charts and traditional nav gear just in case).

The engine, again as you know, is a Brand new Yanmar 39 HP that uses around 3 to 3.5 litrs and hour at 75% power. Yanmar is acclaimed as one of the best brands in the business and at 39HP she has all the grunt I need for this vessel.

 The sails are slooped rigged with a new furler and 2 headsails. The main is a tough bit of kit with triple reef system, the last of which is effectively the storm sail. Anchor gear is being updated to a 45lbs Manson anchor, 70 m of 10mm chain and an 18mm nylon springer. The dingy is a quicksilver with a 5hp Mercury outborad - again all new.

Well I thinks that the story. If you have specific question I am available at gregclynick@optusnet.com.au. For contact when out of 3G range, I'll write up a short blogg to explain how we can be contacted through SailMail.

A major problem with a silver lining

4th May 2010

Unbelievable as it might seem, today we had a major revelation as to why the engine and prop had not been functioning as they should.

Following some weeks of trying to solve an issue with the engine , I called on the input of a local Yanmar mechanic who I knew to be well qualified. His plan was to use an optical Tacho to determine why the prop RPM was not as it should be. As we motored off the dock, some 90 seconds passed when I heard a call from below: " I can see what the problem is, lets go back!".

What he saw was that GRIFFIN Marine, the installers of the engine, had connected the gearbox in reverse. Why? A mystery to any above the age of 3 who knew anything about machines.

It seems there were two possibilities. One was a compounding of errors whereby the cables were simply rigged backwards but this error was masked by the fact they they never picked up that the prop was left handed, the wrong way for the new Yanmar. Really stupid stuff! The other possibility was they discovered their error and tried to hide it by rigging the gear box backwards. If this was so, what the failed to understand was that the reduction ratio in reverse is different and more importantly that the gearbox has a 10 min limit on reverse operations. This meant hat the gear box was WRECKED  and needed too  be replaced! Really stupid stuff.

So within an hour of this discovery, negotiation for reparation and compensation began and all of this will keep us in Port Stephens for the next 2 weeks.

The Silver lining? Better now than way up the coast and Port Stephens has all I need to get this fixed.

All of this is of course massively frustrating but I am sticking to my vow to not lets this phase me and to regard it all as part of the golden tapestry that is adventure.

Departure at last!

Pilgrim Progress 30th Apr 2010

We Departed Heron Cove marina at 12:00 to find the alternator out of action. We had no choice but to returned to marina for Sam (the electronic guy) to find a poor crimp connection (their work). Good fortune really as if it happen on route it would have been a much bigger issue.

13:00 departed again, got fuel at RMYC and set off.

Motored out of Pittwater in high spirits we found the water outside Barrenjoey to be very confused with crossing swell and sea and erratic light winds. Without sails Pilgrim was very rolly so I immediately feared for Pauls ability to cope with the sea sickness potential which even I admit was very high.

With sails set we started to catch some wind and things settle a little.

After and hour or so the winds shifted and increased to a very well received 10-15 Kts from the SE. With the engine now shut down Pilgrim really showed her colours with speeds of 6 – 7 kts giving us 8 kts over the ground.

The seas remained confused but we had a steady sail until sunset. Sadly, by this time, Paul had lost a hard fought battle to avoid being crook.

The night brought with it numerous tankers off Newcastle, each to be avoided, Rain and significant fluctuations in the wind with gust to 20 Kts+ from any where in a 90 deg sector. The gusts ‘lumped up’ the sea and called for sail trimming and eventual reefing so things were not so easy, particularly with Paul out of action.

The biggest problem of the night was a diesel leak which was pouring fuel into the bilge and making an almighty mess and smell. I tracked the leak to the aft of the starboard tank but could do nothing to stop it. After some time I actually had to hand pump the bilge to try to keep it from spreading through the boat. This of course was not a pleasant task as the boat by now was lurching in all direction, wet and still, Paul out of action. The Good news was the autopilot was doing a great job.

Resigned to this problem and working hard to maintain my ‘self pledge’ to not let things upset me, I settled into sailing the boat and navigating our way using all the magic Raymarine gear, all of which worked well but for the life tag system.

The life tag is a man overboard system that each of us wear. If we leave the boat an alarm sounds. Unfortunately we got a number of false alarms from what I though was inadvertently bumping to the units but latter seemed to be a fault.

With the good performance of Pilgrim we made Fingal much much earlier than planned so instead of a morning arrival by day we sailed in to rainy and dark Port Stephens at 02:00 sat morning. Keen to get snug I opted for a mooring in Shoal bay which all went well but for the Life tag alarm repeatedly activating, thus demanding that we (Paul was on the mend) pick up an unfamiliar mooring in shallow water on a dark night all to the tune of screaming alarms.

After securing the boat and a cuppa, I got to cleaning the fuel out of the bilge in an attempt to make the boat liveable for the night. This took hours and was horrible to say the least but I got it done and we both hit our bunks about 05:00.

Leg one was over!