12th Aug 2010
After a long stop over at Cairns we will be setting off tomorrow for places further North. The reason for the stop included repairs that needed parts (we had to wait for these of course) and poor timing on the weather as the last few days have been somewhat ‘sub-optimal’. None the less, the rest was good but as ever, we a chaffing at the bit.
Up North is Cooktown, Lizard island and then the Cape; a stretch that promises to be “without much for the cruising sailor” to quote our cruising guide. The other issue with this part of the leg is that this stretch is well know for its persistent Trades Winds so for South bound sailors this is a real drag. South bound you say?? Yep, sad to say but there are things brewing and things that already are, that will likely se us turn around before too much longer – I’ll let you know.
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
Friday, August 6, 2010
Cairns
06th Aug 2010
A simple trip around Cape Grafton and though the entrance channel to Cairns soon had us snug in the Marina just after midday. Apart from the very shallow water all around here (only about 1m mostly) Cairns appeared pretty much as expected in that it is a shinny tourist spot full of places to spend money and equally full of international tourist.
The plan here is to vote, do some repairs, plan ahead and generally rest up so there will be little to report for a few days.
A simple trip around Cape Grafton and though the entrance channel to Cairns soon had us snug in the Marina just after midday. Apart from the very shallow water all around here (only about 1m mostly) Cairns appeared pretty much as expected in that it is a shinny tourist spot full of places to spend money and equally full of international tourist.
The plan here is to vote, do some repairs, plan ahead and generally rest up so there will be little to report for a few days.
Thursday, August 5, 2010
Wack!
05th Aug 2010
Wack! That was the sound of something very big hitting the lures so hard that it pulled the trace out of its crimp. This happen about 3 hours after leaving Mourilyan Harbour enroute for Mission Bay. We lost the fish of course but the good news is, we did land a good one after a little while longer but more on that in a moment.
Wack! That was the sound of something very big hitting the lures so hard that it pulled the trace out of its crimp. This happen about 3 hours after leaving Mourilyan Harbour enroute for Mission Bay. We lost the fish of course but the good news is, we did land a good one after a little while longer but more on that in a moment.After a great nights sleep, helped along by afternoon drinks in the cockpit with Greg and Alan, our colleagues from BANJERIN, we weighed anchor at 07:00 and soon found the same westerly as yesterday. Sailing at 6 kts with the grey skies clearing, Banjerin, who had left just ahead of us, called VHF and asked if we were trolling as they had already landed two good Mackerels. Of course the line was out in a flash but little happened for some time, we had obviously missed the school as all was quite. Quite until the big hand reel with wire trace and 100lb line, leaped in the air. On catching the airborne item the line went taut and – wack, gone! On retrieval we found the remnants of the rig and it was clear that a lot of force was required to strip the crimp. What ever it was, it was big! The next strike was smaller but failed to hook up. However, about 30 mins later, we knew we had something but judging from the fight it wasn’t big. Wrong again! As the 70cm mackerel hit the surface, all hell broke loose as it struggled to get free. Flinging it into the cockpit, the frenzy continued until Paul got the knife to its head but by this we had quite a mess on the boat. Still, a small price though for at least 4 good meals.
Just prior to arriving at Fitzroy Island, we had a momentary diversion as the alternator went into ‘overvolt’ but it settles after a non specific look the wiring. I can only hope it was an aberration but I’ll check more thoroughly at Cairns.
As for the Island, a nice enough place though small, as is THE near new (unlicensed?) resort located here. After a brief look around we returned to the boat for some reading. It was during this time, while in the cockpit, that I was disturbed by a very large splash about 50m from the boat. Not a fish, more dolphin sized but not a dolphin. The water left by the splash was a swirl of wash about 2 to 3 m in diameter. Shortly after, while still looking at the swirl settle, I saw what looked like a croc’s back. I can’t be sure but thats the facts! I think tonight will include a little listening for things that go ‘bump in the night’.
As for the Island, a nice enough place though small, as is THE near new (unlicensed?) resort located here. After a brief look around we returned to the boat for some reading. It was during this time, while in the cockpit, that I was disturbed by a very large splash about 50m from the boat. Not a fish, more dolphin sized but not a dolphin. The water left by the splash was a swirl of wash about 2 to 3 m in diameter. Shortly after, while still looking at the swirl settle, I saw what looked like a croc’s back. I can’t be sure but thats the facts! I think tonight will include a little listening for things that go ‘bump in the night’.Tuesday, August 3, 2010
Can’t do Kent!
04th Aug 2010
As explained, we needed to leave Hinchinbrook before 06:00 in order to have enough depth to get out of the marina. As it was we saw '0' on the sounder a couple of times but did not touch bottom. Once clear we were surprised by a fresh and cold ‘land breeze’ that pushed us along under full sail at over 6 kts. This was a completely local effect as the forecast was still with S/SE so as expected, it died off after about 2 hours. Still, a good start to the day and one that gave us perhaps the most spectacular sunrise to date.
With the motor running again to assist the sails we drifted past Dunk Island and Mission Beach. Both these, in fact the entire area, seemed really appealing so I made a point to return one day and have a look around.
Now our target for the day was a little island called Kent. We had read about this in another cruising book we have on board and while ‘Lucas’ listed it as a good weather only anchorage, we expected just that! On arrival what we found was indeed and idyllic little island much like the type you might see in a cartoon. Perfect vegetation, golden sand and complete isolation. Unfortunately it was simply too small to offer any protection at all from either wind or swell so reluctantly we pushed north to Mourilyan Harbour.
As you can see from the photo, the entrance is very tight thus affording this place an “all weather’ status A small commercial port dedicated to sugar, here will be our snug little hide away for the night..
With the motor running again to assist the sails we drifted past Dunk Island and Mission Beach. Both these, in fact the entire area, seemed really appealing so I made a point to return one day and have a look around.
Now our target for the day was a little island called Kent. We had read about this in another cruising book we have on board and while ‘Lucas’ listed it as a good weather only anchorage, we expected just that! On arrival what we found was indeed and idyllic little island much like the type you might see in a cartoon. Perfect vegetation, golden sand and complete isolation. Unfortunately it was simply too small to offer any protection at all from either wind or swell so reluctantly we pushed north to Mourilyan Harbour.
Architects and crocodiles
03rd Aug 2010
After a good day we are now in a marina at Port Hinchinbrook not far from Cardwell. As ‘flash’ as things are, this is a place that has obviously been conceived in the mind of an architect and sadly, it doesn’t work! The marina is half empty, it is ridiculously shallow (we had 400 mm at high tide) and most of the ‘condos like’ houses are up for sale. But there is more!!
Needing some groceries, I was advised to walk to Cardwell via the coast walk, also designed by an architect. This is a narrow, low walkway that treks right through the mangroves, between the marshes and the shore. Obviously crocodile territory to anyone but the architect that designed it!. I don’t know if they have lost any tourist but I was most certainly on high alert as the sun was low and ( I felt) the threat level was approaching extreme. Don’t you love the idealist arty type who haven’t got a clue? But lets go back to the start if the day.
After a calm and still evening as discussed in the last blog, I woke around 03:00 with the wind building rapidly. This was in the forecast but I did not expect either the time or the rapidity of the onset. The outcome of this change found us tugging at the anchor with what sounded like ‘dragging anchor chain’ running across and over coral mounds. The ride in Pilgrim was very turbulent with sever rolling when we were driven across the swell and noisy pitching when facing into the blow. Now none of this was in any way dangerous or threatening, just bloody uncomfortable. But, with that said, while forward checking the anchor security, I all but fell over board on a particularly bad roll. Image that; falling into the dark mid night water in 25 kts of wind in my PJ shorts.
Because of tides we delayed our departure to 10:00 as we needed depth into Hinchinbrook entrance and the speed advantage of a flood tide was worth waiting for. On arrival the first thing of note was the ‘Sugar Wharf’ at Lucinda. This is an amazing sight at 5 km in length. In fact this thing is so big ,one struggles to get the perspective right. (see left)
After a good day we are now in a marina at Port Hinchinbrook not far from Cardwell. As ‘flash’ as things are, this is a place that has obviously been conceived in the mind of an architect and sadly, it doesn’t work! The marina is half empty, it is ridiculously shallow (we had 400 mm at high tide) and most of the ‘condos like’ houses are up for sale. But there is more!!
Needing some groceries, I was advised to walk to Cardwell via the coast walk, also designed by an architect. This is a narrow, low walkway that treks right through the mangroves, between the marshes and the shore. Obviously crocodile territory to anyone but the architect that designed it!. I don’t know if they have lost any tourist but I was most certainly on high alert as the sun was low and ( I felt) the threat level was approaching extreme. Don’t you love the idealist arty type who haven’t got a clue? But lets go back to the start if the day.
After a calm and still evening as discussed in the last blog, I woke around 03:00 with the wind building rapidly. This was in the forecast but I did not expect either the time or the rapidity of the onset. The outcome of this change found us tugging at the anchor with what sounded like ‘dragging anchor chain’ running across and over coral mounds. The ride in Pilgrim was very turbulent with sever rolling when we were driven across the swell and noisy pitching when facing into the blow. Now none of this was in any way dangerous or threatening, just bloody uncomfortable. But, with that said, while forward checking the anchor security, I all but fell over board on a particularly bad roll. Image that; falling into the dark mid night water in 25 kts of wind in my PJ shorts.
Because of tides we delayed our departure to 10:00 as we needed depth into Hinchinbrook entrance and the speed advantage of a flood tide was worth waiting for. On arrival the first thing of note was the ‘Sugar Wharf’ at Lucinda. This is an amazing sight at 5 km in length. In fact this thing is so big ,one struggles to get the perspective right. (see left)
On entering the Hinchinbrook Passage, both Paul and I were amazed by the spectacle. This is a unique place where a person can sail in amongst the great dividing range. Hills to almost 1000m and channels as wide as Sydney Harbour give you an idea of the scale of this place. The passage up the channel was really special with views that just wouldn’t quite.
Another plus is that the passage is well marked as shown at left. Even so, we did think the port marker in amongst the trees was just a tad redundant given that to go the wrong side of it would probably require a land drover. And that brings me back to the crocodiles!ack to the crocodiles!
Tomorrow is and early departure as we simply will not get out on much less than a high tide – This, I am told , is not the architects fault but is a result of some Government Environmental git exerting their authority. Save me!
Monday, August 2, 2010
Orpheus Island
02nd Aug 2010
We woke to a cloudy by generally fine day with little wind. Leaving Magnetic about 07:45 we motored and then motor/sailed uneventfully, all the way to Orpheus island, north of the Palm Group. The main island of this group is of course Palm Island, a big place’ dedicated to the Aboriginal community on its west side. While it has a number of good anchorages, landing on Palm is not permitted so the recommendation we were following was to go to Orpheus which is all national park and boast a marine research station belonging to James Cook University.
On arrival we dropped in quite deep water (11m) to avoid the coral reefs along the shore and though this meant putting out every bit of anchor cable on the boat, I was confident that we were secure. The only problem here is the possibility of damaging the coral with so much chain but there seems little option.
Although there were some boats slightly north of us, we had this spot to ourselves so it was all ours to enjoy the crystal clear water and a general vista was top class. The sea was glassy and the afternoon was near perfect so this was already on the records as another great spot!
Shortly after settling in, a small runabout from the research station came over for a G’Aye. After a time, it came up that my sweet daughter Brianna (PhD) was into marine research and it turned out that one of the folks knew of her through a mutual colleague – small world. With that we were invited to come over and have a tour of the place at our pleasure. This we did, as the photo show and then proceeded back to Pilgrim for a spot of fishing before dinner (I don’t think this is a sanctuary??). This, in fact, turned out to be successful endeavour with me quickly landing a very good sized Mangrove Jack which was soon cleaned and in the fridge as I Paul had already prepared dinner.
Tomorrow will be a late, so easy, start as I need to get the tides right for both the entry and course through the Hinchinbrook passage. Once there we have a bout a 20 nm trip inside what Lucas describes as one of the best inland routes in Australia. This will take us up near Cardwell for the night and then its onto Kent Island the next day.
We woke to a cloudy by generally fine day with little wind. Leaving Magnetic about 07:45 we motored and then motor/sailed uneventfully, all the way to Orpheus island, north of the Palm Group. The main island of this group is of course Palm Island, a big place’ dedicated to the Aboriginal community on its west side. While it has a number of good anchorages, landing on Palm is not permitted so the recommendation we were following was to go to Orpheus which is all national park and boast a marine research station belonging to James Cook University.
Although there were some boats slightly north of us, we had this spot to ourselves so it was all ours to enjoy the crystal clear water and a general vista was top class. The sea was glassy and the afternoon was near perfect so this was already on the records as another great spot!
Shortly after settling in, a small runabout from the research station came over for a G’Aye. After a time, it came up that my sweet daughter Brianna (PhD) was into marine research and it turned out that one of the folks knew of her through a mutual colleague – small world. With that we were invited to come over and have a tour of the place at our pleasure. This we did, as the photo show and then proceeded back to Pilgrim for a spot of fishing before dinner (I don’t think this is a sanctuary??). This, in fact, turned out to be successful endeavour with me quickly landing a very good sized Mangrove Jack which was soon cleaned and in the fridge as I Paul had already prepared dinner.Sunday, August 1, 2010
Magnetic Island
01st Aug 2010
Today has reaffirmed my view on this magnificent place; yes, we decided to stay!
After a relaxed breakfast we headed for the beach where I left Paul while I set off to explore the island. Walking in relatively warm and humid conditions for a guy from Sydney, I spent around 4 hours investigating the bays on the NE of the Island and some of the WWII sites.
Apart from views and forts, this treasure of a place has wild life in abundance. In fact, Koalas can be found in vast number ( see shot at right) as can Dugongs but these are much harder to see. (remember to double click the photos for larger images)
Today has reaffirmed my view on this magnificent place; yes, we decided to stay!
After a relaxed breakfast we headed for the beach where I left Paul while I set off to explore the island. Walking in relatively warm and humid conditions for a guy from Sydney, I spent around 4 hours investigating the bays on the NE of the Island and some of the WWII sites.Starting at Horseshoe Bay I walked to both Florence and Arthur Bays. Both, beautiful little hidden away paradises with a handful of swimmers enjoying the pristine water. The shot above left is looking over Arthur bay towards to North but fails to really capture the magnificence of the day. Perhaps a better view was the next, taken from one of the forts higher up the island. These were WWII emplacements associated with guns , Radar and searchlights and a body of some 120 troops – great posting!
Walking on further I came to a lookout that provided a view back Townsville across Cleveland Bay which shows the snug maritime geography of both Townsville and Magnetic. Being Sunday and a near perfect one at that, the heavy boat traffic between the mainland and Maggie was not surprising.
In fact, the sea all around the isalnd was near perfect with a deep blue colour, calm and glimmering conditions and a general appearance that might lead one to forget just how horrid the sea can become on a BAD DAY,
In fact, the sea all around the isalnd was near perfect with a deep blue colour, calm and glimmering conditions and a general appearance that might lead one to forget just how horrid the sea can become on a BAD DAY,
Apart from views and forts, this treasure of a place has wild life in abundance. In fact, Koalas can be found in vast number ( see shot at right) as can Dugongs but these are much harder to see. (remember to double click the photos for larger images)On return to Horseshoe, hot tired but thoroughly fulfilled I had a swim, spent time in my latest book (over a white wine) and finally returned to the boat to a sunset that was in keeping with the rest of the day.
While we could easily stay here a while, we must move on so tomorrow should see us up anchor around 07:00 as we head off to what ever it is that may lay ahead.
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